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Regional Variations in Craft of Embroidery

In this article, we will be looking at Regional Variations in the Craft of Embroidery. Embroidery takes two forms in India. One is hand embroidery using silk or cotton thread while another form of embroidery is mirror work.

Regional Variations in Craft of Embroidery

Those from different states have their distinctive forms. This will be illustrated with a few examples from different regions as well as those from Rajasthan, Banaras, and Rajasthani folk arts. These will also reveal the similarities and differences between them at several levels. These handicrafts of Chikan, kantha embroidery, do rukha and sujni embroidery are particularly popular for their aesthetic appeal and intricacy. 

The chikan work is composed of either embroidered orkhni (a delicate fine net) on the plain white, loom-made loom, or even on the shirting fabrics or shawls. These garments are well known for the use of materials like pure silk, zari, zardozi, gold etc., in different stylistic combinations.

The Meaning of Crafts

Handicrafts in India are commonly referred to as hastkala, hastshilp, dastkari, and karigari, all of which mean handiwork, but they also refer to objects made with craftsmanship, i.e., specialised hand skills that are also artistic. The aesthetic content is an inherent part of such objects, implying that the utility object has a value that extends beyond mere utility and is also pleasing to the eye. A handcrafted object is rarely merely decorative, and whether it is embellished or not, its true purpose is served only when it is both useful and of fine form.

  • Kashmir: Kashmir is famous for its pashmina shawl. These pashmina shawl are uniquely two-sided, with almost the same pattern stitched on both sides in different colours
  • Do-rukha is the term for pashmina shawl
  • It might take up to two years to create a single pashmina shawl
  • Punjab: It is known for phulkari, or to be precise, the blooming work done on phulkari, which is a type of traditional needlework
  • The inverse satin stitching is done on just a brick-red khadi material with threads in vibrant colours including fiery pinks, oranges, mustard yellows, and creams- this is a type of traditional phulkari cloth
  • A bagh is an all-over embroidered shawl (dupatta) that resembles a floral garden
  • Kutch: Embroidery is taught to ladies of all castes from an early age
  • They embroider their trousseaus, which include skirts, cholis, veils, quilts, and house décor
  • The colours used in most embroideries include fuchsia, emerald, greenish, yellow, as well as purple
  • Their embroideries are as brilliant as their barren desert surroundings, with motifs of wildflowers, peacocks, elephants, and birds
  • In Kutch, each village and community has its own particular flair
  • The cloth is embroidered with gleaming mirrors
  • Bihar: Sujni is a type of quilted needlework that focuses on stories
  • Uttar Pradesh: Chikan-work from Lucknow uses a variety of stitches to create a patterned abstraction of florals, paisleys, and stars on cotton mull
  • Stitches come in a variety of names, including:
  • Ghas-ki-patti: As fragile as grass
  • Murri: It resembles a grain of rice at first glance
  • Keel: A nail tip
  • The most common names are: 
  • Bakhia: On the back of the material, a herringbone stitch is used to create the illusion of a shadow
  • Tepchi:A stitch that is joined together
  • Phanda: A tight round knot that may be used to produce flowers and leaves, among other things.
  • West Bengal: Thousands of tiny threads are used in Kantha embroidery to give the cloth a puckered quilted appearance
  • Kantha embroidery has been used to produce quilts and mattress protectors in Bangladesh and India
  • Kantha embroidery is embroidered using colorful threads extracted from saree borders, ancient sarees were folded together and embroidered
  • Sarees & dupattas have Kantha embroidery for the metro market
  • Orissa: Pipli in Orissa seems to have its own distinctive style of appliqué, with bright red, yellow, and green dancing elephants and parrots highlighted with a white or black chain stitch on a brightly colored background cloth. It was originally created for the Puri Temple’s rath procession hangings
  • Karnataka: Kasuti is a stitch that is used on the borders, Pallav, and blouse of the Chandrakala saree, which is blue-black and indigo-colored. The Tulsi leaf, temple carriages, eight-pointed stars, peacocks, bridal palanquins, and other themes are pictorial in nature
  • Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka: The gypsy tribes of Lambani, Lambada, and Banjara produce stunning needlework
  • They wear beautiful skirts, low-cut blouses, and veils with mirroring patterns, silver or metal coins, and jewels at the corners

Instead of genuine floral, insects, or mammals, their designs resemble geometric.

Embroidery has been one of the most important Indian art forms. It has evolved over centuries into various traditions, each imbued with its own specific identity. Every region had its own style of embroidery work and their patterns were inspired by the locale. 

Conclusion

India is a mash-up of many worlds, spanning many centuries and cultures. The world of India’s craftspeople spans millennia and extends across the length and breadth of our country, as seen in cities and towns, byways and villages. A small crafted object made in an unknown village in India has the potential to become an object displayed in the world’s finest museums, yet the same object is frequently merely an object of utility for a specific community that never thinks of it as a great art. It is often a lack of understanding of the diverse cultures, techniques, meanings, uses, and relevance of such handcrafted objects that allows us to overlook their beauty and take our cultural heritage for granted.

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